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#41
General Discussion / Re: From the Library
Last post by Biggles - Oct 13, 2025, 03:11 AM
(In France)
Brian: The bitter cold and persistent fog make me realise we made right decision not to head to Turkey. Instead we go south to Spain for some better weather. Our first stop is a cafe in a little town just over the border. There are photos of motorcycle racing champion Carlos Checa on the walls. In broken Spanish I find out he has a villa nearby and often drops in for lunch, but not today.
The sun breaks through late in the morning and it turns into one of those magic days on the road. The sun's shining; the road is twisty with very little traffic. We hit the edge of the Pyrenees.
There are plenty of tunnels through the mountains - two kilometres, four kilometres and five kilometres cutting down our journey time. It's not cheap, though - the longest costs €11 (over $16.00) - and we spend more on tolls than fuel today.
Circle To Circle  Shirley & Brian Rix  p295
#42
General Discussion / Re: From the Library
Last post by Biggles - Oct 12, 2025, 03:14 AM
We ride the Needles Highway - a most incredible road that winds its way through pillars of granite, known as needles. It's a twisty road through narrow canyons surrounded by stone cliffs, pines and fir trees. One tunnel's a single lane wide. A couple of blasts of the horn before heading through and you hope there's nothing coming the other way.
I don't think it can get any better and then we hit the Iron Mountain Road, highway 16A. It's 27 kilometres of incredible road through the mountains and boasts 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, three pigtails, three tunnels, four presidents and two splits. The presidents, of course, is the view of presidents Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln at Mount Rushmore you can see as you ride out of one of the tunnels.
The tourist authorities describe it as an historical work of art. Some people might dispute it, but for a motorcyclist it's possibly the best road in the world.
I know that's a big claim, but it's awesome.
Circle To Circle  Shirley & Brian Rix  p268
#43
General Discussion / Re: From the Library
Last post by Biggles - Oct 11, 2025, 01:09 PM
John wants to take us to the town of Whittier while we're in the area. Built on the other side of the mountain during World War II, the only way to it is through the rail tunnel - on the bikes. It's only one train track wide and 4.2 kilometres long. They open the tunnel up to the town on the half hour and back on the hour.
While we wait for the tunnel to open Shirl reads the safety leaflet. She's a good worrier so this gives her something to worry about. John and I don't bother. She'll tell me if I do something wrong.
It's narrow, slippery and slow, but it's an amazing experience. I take the track between the rail lines, riding cautiously. A sudden rush of air gives me a hell of a fright and moves the bike around. It's the air duct pumping fresh air into the tunnel. I wonder if they're mentioned in the safety brochure. This is a real one-off experience. You don't get to ride a railway track every day.
Circle To Circle  Shirley & Brian Rix  p243-4
#44
General Discussion / Re: From the Library
Last post by Biggles - Oct 10, 2025, 06:12 AM
(In Alaska)
Brian: We're cruising along about 95 kph on the lookout for bears. Apparently they graze beside the road up here. Ken and Carol are behind us. All of a sudden the bike starts to sag at the back end and then there's an almighty grinding sound, the back wheel locks up as the whole rear of the bike collapses onto the wheel. I'm sure we're going to end up sliding down the road. I grit my teeth, brace my arms and ride it to a halt, coming to a stop with a screech of things grinding and the back wheel locked up. I know it's not good before I even get off the bike.
Ken pulls up and says, "Shit that was amazing! Bits and pieces flying everywhere! Have you blown a tyre? Is it bits of rubber?"
I wish it was that simple. When I look at the bike it's clear what's happened. The rear shock shaft has snapped in half, pushing the shock and spring into the plastic rear hugger I put on to protect the shock from mud. That's disintegrated and it's bitten into the tyre. It's a bloody mess, to put it mildly. The whole rear of the bike is resting on the back wheel. It's something I didn't expect to happen; it's an Ohlins shocker, the best money can buy.
Circle To Circle  Shirley & Brian Rix  p203-4
#45
General Discussion / Re: From the Library
Last post by Biggles - Oct 09, 2025, 01:58 AM
Shirley: San Francisco - what a city. Our hotel's in the Cow Hollow area. We love the houses, the bars, the restaurants. We ride the trolley cars, wander along Fisherman's wharf, eat fabulous seafood and even take in a movie.
We love San Francisco and what better way to farewell the city than to ride down Lombard Street, the world's most crooked street. It's great fun riding down the steep street with its eight hairpin turns. I get the feeling the driver of the car in front of us is scared we're going to end up in his boot. Poor Brian is being squashed against the tank because I can't help but crawl all over his back and push him forward, the road's so steep. It's a little discomfort for massive fun.
Circle To Circle  Shirley & Brian Rix  p187
#46
General Discussion / Re: From the Library
Last post by Biggles - Oct 08, 2025, 06:49 AM
Brian: There are 5,000 people at the Overland Expo and somehow we need to track down our Aussie mates, Ken and Carol Duval. They're on their second ride around the world. Ken's in his early 60s and still rides despite having two hip replacements. Carol thrives on life on the road and is the master packer. She's so good at fitting every little item onto their bike she holds packing classes. I'm wandering through a group when an Aussie voice says, "Aren't you Brian Rix?" I don't expect to hear that, this far from home. It's an older bloke, who tells me it's my fault he's here. He met us after our last trip and that encouraged him to get off his arse and travel. Now he's riding a bike around the US. Good on him.
Circle To Circle  Shirley & Brian Rix  p178-9
#47
All Events Calendar / Re: Harrow FarRoad Ride
Last post by ZigZag - Oct 07, 2025, 10:05 AM
Quote from: SImonb on Oct 05, 2025, 11:50 PMI've registered also. Looking forward to meeting those attending the Hermitage Hotel. Never been to Harrow and there's a few new roads to ride on the way.

We'll see you there.
#48
General Discussion / Re: From the Library
Last post by Biggles - Oct 07, 2025, 07:03 AM
Shirley: The wind picks up and now there's really nowhere to stop and put on our wets. The wind's howling and the rain starts to belt down. So much for skirting the storm. We have to pull up or we're going to get saturated. The wind makes getting our waterproof jackets on a real struggle. And then the rain turns to hail, hailstones the size of golf balls. They're so big they hurt when they hit.
We crouch down behind the bike but it doesn't help. Brian says should try and ride through it. It's as black as Hades and the hail is still pelting down. I try and tuck in behind Brian but that doesn't stop the pain. And it's cold, really cold, in the blistering wind. We don't get very far before we have to stop again.
The hail stops but the road's covered in ice a few centimetres thick, making it very dangerous. Brian picks his way through following tracks made by the cars and trucks ahead of us. He does an amazing job keeping us safe at times like this.
Circle To Circle  Shirley & Brian Rix  p174
#49
General Discussion / Re: From the Library
Last post by Biggles - Oct 06, 2025, 02:02 AM
Brian is getting sick. He has an ear infection and a sore throat. It's been a long six months on the road. We've had long days on the bike. The roads are not great, the maps are not great and the bike is heavy. All in all there's a lot of pressure on him. Because of the weight in the bags I can't help him repack the bike, so he ends up doing that everyday too.
After months of battling with the language, the bad roads and bad drivers, we're both looking forward to getting to the US. Just about every town in Mexico is guarded by speed bumps every 10 or 20 metres. They slow us down and they're not good for the bike or Brian's good humour. Each one seems to be a different size and design and they're in different states of repair and disrepair.
While Brian sleeps I check out Monterrey, our destination for the final run to the border. On the Trip Advisor website there's a travel warning. Foolishly I click on it. It's a big mistake. The Australian Government warning is quite clear. Don't go there. In August, 52 people were murdered in the casino. They also advise travellers to stick to the toll roads and keep doors locked while driving. Well, that's helpful.
Circle To Circle  Shirley & Brian Rix  p163
#50
All Events Calendar / Re: Harrow FarRoad Ride
Last post by SImonb - Oct 05, 2025, 11:50 PM
I've registered also. Looking forward to meeting those attending the Hermitage Hotel. Never been to Harrow and there's a few new roads to ride on the way.